Exploring and Walking Around Positano
Positano is gorgeous – I sometimes wonder when it was made by God (or some other higher being/energy force) if they added a good dash of extra-special-goodness. This was our 6th time to Italy, but our first visit to the Amalfi Coast area, so we were excited to experience a new part of Italy – one of our favourite countries.
Arrival Day in Positano
We arrived in Positano on the ferry from Capri, around midday on a Saturday. The ferry took about 45 minutes and cost about 20 Euros each. We sat up top in the open air and enjoyed the sunshine. Soon after we left Marina Grande in Capri, the attendants came around with a basket and cooler, so we bought a beer and limoncello. Sipping away at these cool treats, with the wind in our hair and sun on our face wasn’t such a bad way to start the ferry ride to Positano.
After we disembarked, we settled in at a local bar, in order to meet up with our host of the apartment we rented. Carmela arrived on time and the three of us walked around the west point of town for about 10 minutes, then up 125 steps to our front door. It was stinking hot so Michael (I call him my brick-shit-house) was the luggage mule, and I bumbled up behind him, stopping every 30 steps for a break.
The apartment in Positano was fantastic! I found it on VRBO – and here is a review in another blog post. It was the second floor of a four story home, built into the hillside, with an epic view of the Tyrrhenian Sea and one of the free (libero) beaches, directly below. While you could see homes across from you, it felt isolated and was very quiet.
After settling in, we set out, back into town to buy groceries and get a handle on the lay of the land. I wasn’t feeling great (at this point I realize three drinks in the blazing sun with little food had caught with me), so I waited in a small piazza near the fishmonger and Michael left to find some groceries. He was gone for about 40 minutes and returned with quite a few bags. Turns out he had to walk up hundreds of stairs to the top road in order to find a grocery store. We didn’t realize until a day or so later, that there was a grocery store about 100 feet from where I was waiting! So if you need to find a grocery store in the lower part of Positano, go to the Duomo, and the store entrance is off the main steps up to the Cathedral.
We headed back to the apartment to get the food into the fridge, and had a wonderful cold plate for lunch. After doing a load of laundry, it wasn’t difficult to stay in for a home-cooked meal, and enjoy the evening with such a wonderful view from our terrace.
Positano – DAY ONE
We woke up at 6am this morning for an important Skype call from home, and had a leisurely breakfast, while watching the sun come up across the ridge and slowly creep onto the rock beach below. Across the gulley we noticed some familiar faces from the day before, on the top of a staircase, heading to work or to start their day. For a moment I felt like a local.
After a great breakfast of cappuccinos, fresh strawberries and yogurt, we started our day. We walked west past the smaller free beach, through a tunnel, then arrived at a larger beach. It has three beach clubs, as well as a smaller section that is also considered a free beach – (at the far west end). We found some stairs at the end of the furthest building on the west end of the beach and started climbing. The views got better the higher up we climbed, so there was many stops for taking pictures. I’m an avid gardener, so to see the plethora of bougainvillea, in-bloom jasmine and other flowering goodies, it was difficult to not keep stopping.
When we got up to the top road, we didn’t really know where we were, but that never bothers us – we just headed East in hopes that we’d find out way back to the town center. [We figured out after the fact, that Positano has a one-way road that goes through the town – I refer to this as the top road a few times, but at the west end and east ends of this road, it joins the true ‘top road’, which connects most of the towns of the Amalfi coast, and it is a two-way road.]
So we walked at the side of the road amidst locals and tourists, cars, motorcycles and Vespas, staying to the side like all the other people walking. After 10 minutes of walking Michael let out a laugh when he saw the grocery store from the day before! It was only then that I realized how far he walked up from that little piazza.
The walk along the road was a highlight that day – we stopped along the way to shop, poked around in a few galleries and I seem to remember that a gelato or two made it into our meander. Many stops for photos, and we finally arrived at the main street that led back down to the Duomo – this was the lowest point of the road. We walked a bit further to get that famous shot of Positano, and found a small restaurant to eat at – right on the road. The waiters had to cross the road to serve us as we enjoyed a small table near the railing on the sidewalk. Michael enjoyed an Octopus salad atop a mash of potatoes, and I had Insalata Mista al Mare. Yum, yum and more yum.
By this time it was early in the afternoon, so we headed back into town. More stops along the way for photos, galleries, shopping and, in the heat of the sun, we decided to stop for refreshments at a bar near the main beach.
We arrived back at the apartment and quickly changed into our suits before heading to the small free beach for an hour. A welcome cool off after a hot day of walking. That night we cooked dinner at home, and enjoyed watching a dramatic thunder and lightening storm. Couldn’t ask for anything better than watching the sky change colours and mood, while drinking wine and eating fresh prawns and pasta.
During a recent three week holiday in Italy, we spent four full days in Positano (not including our arrival or departure day). Here are the links to all related posts: